Paddar is a beautiful mountainous region with several exciting treks, many of them virgin. The trek through Machail to Zanskar is the best known. There is a considerable snowfall during the winter.
Nasir Faridi calls Paddar “The valley of sapphire” because of the continental superiority of the gem. However, The Bitumen or Shilajit mines are also located at various places. It has great medical properties and is generally used with milk.
Though Paddar has a long history, as it has been presented by different men of knowledge from different arenas under the aegis of senior researchers and their work.
I am through this article going to bring out some historical as well as geographical aspects of the region-Paddar.
HISTORY OF PADDAR
We have no authentic records about the original inhabitants of Paddar. The region has been also mentioned in Kalhan’s important work “The Rajatarangani”.
The Hindus of the area worship Nag Devta (The Snake God) and Shakti, (the mother of Goddess).
The Naga cults seems to have been predominant throughout Paddar, as the doors of the temples in every village of Paddar have Naga images carved on them even at present.
The evidences of Naga worship, which is, however related to the worship of Vedic God Shiva, lead to infer us that with the passage of time more aborigines of Paddar have either descended from Aryan race or been influenced by Aryan culture and way of life.
But the regular scrutinization following the experimentation proclaimed that this region were mainly ruled by the local chieftains called ‘Ranas’ before the 17th century who were ritually superior to the Thakurs in this region. We have heard stories about Rana of Paddar, A group of three or four villages had a Rana of their own like Rana of Leondi, Rana of Sohal, Rana of Garh, Rana of Massu and it is evident that their pedigree is even now presenting a share in the history of Paddar.
Kishtwar Rajas invaded Paddar but conquered upto Atholi only and returned with large booty. After their return the Ranas practically ruled their principalities independently. In the middle of 17th century A.D. Chattar Singh, the Raja of Chamba attacked Paddar and conquered it. All the Ranas became subservient to him and paid tribute. They now held the post of ‘kardars’ in their respective estates. He constructed a fort and named the place Chattargarh after his name. From Chattar Singh’s time onwards Paddar remained comfortably under the Rajas of Chamba for five or six generations. The Raja of Chamba led an expedition to Zanskar, which was held by a Bhot Raja under Ladakh in about 1820 A.D. or 1825 A.D. and conquered it. The Bhot Raja agreed to pay 1000 rupees, besides musk bags and other things annually as nazar (present) to the Chamba Raja. This amount was collected by Ratnu Palsara of his own accord. When Zorawar Singh conquered Paddar Ratnu fled away to Chamba where from he was sent to Jammu as a prisoner. However, Raja Gulab Singh released him from the prison and took him in his service.
Coming to the geographical aspects, I firstly want to hone the concept in your esteemed knowledge that the “reign of Rana Chieftains” can only be subsumed through archeological surveys.
Paddar is situated 33.15′ North 76.09′ East. It is narrow, y-shaped valley suffused in high mountain of North Western Himalayas in southest of District Kishtwar.
There are scintillating facts and facets to present about the villages of Paddar. At present in Paddar there are about 35 revenue villages they are Garh, Afani, Atholi, Ishatihari, Ongai, Batwas, Tun, Tiyari, Pandail, Jarh, Chag, Palali, Chitto, Chishoti, Sohal, Kadail, Kundal, Gulabgarh, Laie, Laddar, Leondi, Lussani, Muthal, Matti, Massu, Ligri, Machail, Hamori, Hango, Kabban, Hakoo etc.
Among these Atholi is the headquarter of the ‘Niabat’ of Paddar. It is a picturesque village built on the alluvial pleatue about the 60m above the left bank of the river Chanderbhaga/ Chenab. Across the river, connected by a steel bridge, is Gulabgarh, the other major villages of Paddar. This bridge has replaced the rope suspension bridge that existed here from the 1840s to the middle of the 20th century. Before that, till 1834, there used to be a wooden bridge.
Gulabgarh is famous for its plain deserted area. The Chinar Chowk and a well-stocked market are close to the maidan. Suncham is, the last village in Chenab Valley, Jammu before crossing the Umasi La to enter Zanskar, often called as the valley of Chenab.
There are plentiful of grazing lands on the upper reaches of high mountains in Paddar where Gujjars and Bakerwals as well as local pastures spend their summer month with their flock of sheep and goats and herds of cattle. These pastures on upland provide a majestic landscape to the beholder. The spots are overgrown with wild flowers and herbal plants, shrubs and grass. Some known meadows and pastures are Hagyoth, Haryoth, Mondhel, Bhoozas, Bhoozaunh, Heuzal. In Paddar valley Barnaz-I 6100 meters, Barnaz-II 6290 meters and Shivling 6000 meters high stand around Machail.
The author is a student in Department of Geography in Jammu University.
Paddar is also called “Devbhoomi” (An abode of gods) because there are many deified places in Paddar which increase the prominence of land. To every such mystical and holy place there is a pious tradition of taking pilgrimages so that devotees and people of Paddar shall always remain under the prosperous blessings of these Gods and Goddesses. Beginning with Machail Yatra which has made Paddar famous worldwide, there are many other such pilgrimages like Chitto Yatra, Shivdham Yatra, Hagyoth Yatra, Panji Dhar Yatra and Mindhal Yatra which has enriched and are still enriching the holy atmosphere of Devbhoomi with the scent of devotion. After Machail Yatra which started gaining eminence after 1987, Chitto Yatra is the second oldest yatra which made its name in the religious fabric of Paddar. Today, thousands of devotees pay obeisance at the sacred feet of Singhasan Mata, the prime deity of Chitto Paddar, every year. Now it is growing rapidly like never before but what makes people attract to this pious place and why, is something interesting and which I think we all need to know. Here is a legend:
Legend of Chitto Mata
It is said that Maa Singhasan appeared in the form of Pindi for the first time in the house of one lady called Zyus Dai, whose husband was from a place called Churah in Himachal Pradesh but had settled permanently in Chitto to live his family life. When the lady saw that steep stone (Shekh Fatt) coming out of the earth she became anxious about her house and family. One night in her deep sleep she had a dream. In the dream Maa told Zyus Dai that it was She who was coming in her home in the form of that stone and asked her whether she was happy with that or not. Upset lady made a sorry note of that and asked Maa humbly to change the place of her presence. Maa understood her problem and directed her to make a temple at the place in Chitto from where a long tower of dense sacred smoke would emanate the next morning. She accepted Maa’s command and consecrated the place next morning in the presence of villagers. Since then Maa is protecting and doing good to the place, people believe.
Singhasan Mata Temple, Chitto Paddar
There are many stories of miracles that Maa has performed and which has made Chitto a place of great interest. Some stories are intriguing and surprising at the same time. Here are some:
Watch documentary on Paddar by Ashish Chouhan:
Glory of Chito Mata & Some interesting facts
Temple is situated there at the place where it was consecrated in the past and Mata (a living entity) is still residing there under the curtain in full majesty inside the temple. There are many stories of Singhasan Mata which are capturing the attention of masses. Out of that, there are some stories which are popular and mind bending. Here are these:
It is believed that Singhasan Mata is living behind the drape therefore no one is allowed to peek inside the fragile but iron wall of myth in any case. But if one does so in case by going against the set rule, one would lose his/her eye sight for entire life, people believe. Once a man who was a Patwari from Chamba visited this village for some official work when Paddar was a small administrative unit of Himachal Pradesh. After listening about the myth of curtain he showed curiosity of watching behind it. Villagers tried their best to stop him but he didn’t listen to any of them and went inside the temple. He pushed the curtain to the side and peeked in oddity. All of a sudden a flash of light hit his eyes which took the light of his eyes for the rest of his life, people say. It was that day when the faith in this myth was again reposed with thunderbolt intensity. Even today, people do not take the risk of touching that curtain. Except Pujari, entry is restricted to hoi polloi.
Legend of Tatta Pani is also connected with this historic village of Paddar. Do read and know how Shaish Naga failed in negotiating with Singhasan Mata for a piece of land and know why he left the place and went to another village.
There came a time in the village of Chitto when it was hit hard by the problem of water scarcity and drought like situation. People went whole hog about solving that problem but failed every time they tried. When no strategy worked in their favour they devoted all of their energy in prayers and bowed at the sacred feet of Mata to seek solution from the divine being. To their rescue, Mata became the voice of one ardent devotee and said that after the heavy rainfall of next morning She shall appear in the form of a rainbow which would decide the path for them. All they have to do is to follow the path of that rainbow and construct a small water canal which would cater to all of their demands, Mata said in the frightening roar, people say. Villagers followed the command the very next day and their problem was solved once and for all.
Story of the mythical Court of marriage:
Durbar of Mata is no ordinary. In the ancient times and even in the recent past it acted like a court of marriage for couples who rebelled against the society to find their true love. In short you can say that Singhasan Mata is a great supporter of love marriage . Whenever the parents of eloped couples refused to accept the alliance, they suffered heavily. Nobody dared challenging the rule of Singhasan Mata. Even today, lovers go there to seek the blessings from the divinity for the success of their desired married life.
Mukhya Chela holding holy Silver Mace
The legendary statement of Paddri Chela:
Once a mukhya chela (an ardent devotee) of Maa Khattar Mitti (Mata who took birth from the Earth) said something legendary in the 19th century which became history in the time to come. His name was Thakar Chand. One day while performing pooja in the temple in his typical deified dance he said by becoming the voice of Mata a significant statement in Paddri , I quote “Pahar Panjab Ek Bhway Ghyana” unquote, which means mountain of Paddar and plains of Punjab will become one in the times to come. Nowadays people give different meanings to this statement. Last year when electricity reached at the doorsteps of villagers in Chitto, people started repeating the above statement in joy claiming that truly mountains and plains have become one in terms of development.
Watch this interview of Mukhya Pujari of Singhasan Mata, Chitto Paddar. Here is a link of the vedio and listen what he has to say:
Start of the Chitto Mata Yatra
Usually this yatra starts from 7th or 8th of July every year. But this year (2020)
due to COVID-19 Pandemic it will start or not, no official statement has been issue in this regard. It is highly advised that people should avoid mass religious gatherings.
Though not confirmed but it is likely that Holy Chadi Yatra of Singhasan Mata will commence this year.
Schedule of Chitto Yatra
It will commence from 7th of July as usual if it will. From Chishoti this Yatra will head towards Chitto. On the way it will stop at Leondi for rest on the 7th of July. Next day its second halt would be at Sohal Paddar for a overnight stay there and then after night long bhajan kirtan (jagrata) Chadi Yatra shall reach Chitto with its full splendour. Yatras are taken to Chitto from a number of places in Jammu also.
There is also a legend behind the start of Chitto Yatra. Here it is:
Chitto Yatra Legend:
It is said that in-between 1991-92, wife of Sh.Thakur Chand ji of Chishoti Paddar fell ill. He was an employee in J&k Police so he gave his best to treat his wife in various hospitals. But to his dismay nothing cured his wife. Finally, one day he had a dream, it is said, in which Singhasan Mata told him that if he really wanted to see his wife kicking and alive he must bring yatra to Her darbar every year. Thakur Chand accepted this charge whole heartedly. He gave up his job and started this famous Yatra in 1994. Ever since, this Yatra is continuing successfully. In 2010, it got registered and its responsibility of maintenance was given to a body called “ Singhasan Mata Sevak Sanstha”. Now this body caters to all the demands of devotees every year. It is hoped that this Yatra will also become as big as Machail Yatra one day.
Last Words:
Pilgrims often find solace in pilgrimages, especially in those which are hard to reach. Chitto Yatra is one such. Singhasan Mata is believed to be a fusion of 9 great powers. People visit this shrine with great reverence. In addition to that, Chitto also is a very beautiful village with multitude of spectacular sceneries. It is a village of myths and stories. One must visit this legendary place to seek the blessings of Maa Bhoodati (Earth Goddess) for a happy and prosperous life.
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Since time immemorial, various religious gurus eminent personalities have been visiting the valley of Sapphire (Paddar) but least concrete information about their visits is available.
But when we approached senior persons of Paddar valley, we came to know that since 1987, when the foundation of Himalayan Buddhist Cultural Society was laid down, various religious gurus have visited Paddar valley and we have tried to put them in chronological order as under:
MONTH & YEAR
EMINENT PERSONALITIES
1) JULY 1987
H.H Jabdrung Rinpoche visited the Paddar valley on foot & blessed all the Buddhist communities of Paddar.
2) JULY 1995
H.E the 19th Lochal Tulku Rinpoche visited Gulabgarh Paadar & other adjoining villages. H.E laid the foundation of HCS( Himalayan Cultural School) at Gulabgarh.
3) JULY 1998
Ven Jigmet Khunu Rinpoche visited Paddar Valley.
4) JULY 1999
Ven Jigmet Khunu Rinpoche visited Paddar Valley for the second time.
5) October 2000
H.E Kyabje Stakna Rinpoche at the age of 80 years visited Paddar valley and donated Rs.50000.0 to the school for its smooth running.
6) JUNE 2001
H.E Choeje(Dharana Master) Togden Rinpoche visited Paddar valley and blessed the people of valley . H.E also donated rs. 10000.00 for the HCS.
7) October 2002
H.E Kyabje Stakna Rinpoche visited Paddar valley for 2nd time.
8) JULY 2006
H.E Kyabje Stakna Rinpoche Paddar valley for the 3rd time and also donated Rs.50000.0 to the school .
9) JUNE 2010
H.H the 14th Dalai Lama visited Paddar Valley.
10) October 2013
H.E kyabje Choegon Rinpoche visited Paddar valley and stayed at Gulabgarh fotang for a two days religious teaching organised by Youth Association.
The Tibetan Buddhist spiritual leader arrived here at Gulabgarh Paddar on his 2 day visit to the Sapphire Valley on mountainous Kishtwar District amid tight security arrangements and was received by the Chief Minister Omar Abdullah along with his 3 cabinet colleagues G.M Saroori ( R&B Minister),
Nawang Rigzin Jora ( Tourism & Culture Minister), Qamar Ali Akhoon ( Minister CAPB), Chaudhry Lal Singh( M.P) & Sajjad Ahmed Kichloo. This was the first visit of the H.H the 14th Dalai Lama to the Jammu region of the state. Media persons from different parts of the country reached Paddar valley to cover the moment of the religious congregation organized by Himalayan Buddhist Cultural Society, Paddar under the leadership of Jigmet Norbu.
For the past 15 years , the Buddhist community of Paddar in general & HBCS in in particular was consistently approaching H.H the Dalai Lama to visit Paddar to address the congregation of Buddhist population and now the dreams of the people of the valley is fulfilled.
H.H the 14th Dalai Lama addressed a gathering of about 10000 people from different parts of the country in the Chattergarh Stadium Gulabgarh. Prior to the visit of H.H to Paddar, the people were expecting few political announcements, but when H.H delivered his speech, it was purely nonpolitical. However he said, “I believe myself to be India’s messenger to the world, the listeners got attentive, there was a pin drop silence in the open ground. His another statement ‘India & Tibet have always had a “Guru Shishya relationship”. I am thus a chela of India.
Buddhist Stupa in Paddar
In fact, H.H all the statements were all about peace and brotherhood. While addressing the public gathering, H.H appealed the world leaders to come forward and make the 21st century, violence free. Admiring the social fabric in India where people following different faiths live together peacefully. H.H said that peace is one of the highest virtues and this should lead to the unity of hearts among people of all faiths. H.H appealed the people to continue with their rich multicultural heritage and maintain religious harmony and tranquility at all costs. H.H also said that he was fortunate to have friendship with three generations of Abdullah Family.
Before leaving H.H advised the gathering in the ground of the main temple to follow Buddhism practically for humanity and non-violence. H.H also advised to preserve the rare holy Buddhist texts Kengur & Tengur and maintain peace and harmony with other religious faiths of the valley. He also donated Tengur for the monastery and & provided financial assistance for the smooth functioning of the Himalayan Cultural School and Hostel.
All the local people of Paddar valley were chanting mantras with holding colourful khataks in their hands while H.H was leaving to Dharamshala (HP). They were both sad and happy, sad because H.H was leaving & happy because the decade long dream of the people of Paddar was fulfilled.
H.E Skyabje Choegon Rinpoche arrived at Gulabgarh Gompa on 17th of Oct 2013 for two days teaching along with Jmayang Tsering Namgyal of Ladakh, President Himalayan Buddhist cultural society. Paddar Mr. Tsering Palyor ( Rumal Chand) 7Mr. Tenzin Namgyal Representative of Buddhist youth Association, Paddar ( All Paddar Buddhist Youth Association). On arrival at Gulabgarh Paddar, Rinpoche was given a warm welcome with colourful reception, ritual and music by the monks & people of Paddar at the main temple of H.H the 14th Dalai Lama at Gulabgarh Tehsil Paddar, District Kishtwar of Jammu & Kashmir.
On the first day of teaching i.e on 18th of October, 2013 thousands of people from all over the Paddar valley gathered in the main temple of Gulabgarh to receive the Initiation Kawang of “rta-chag-kyung-sum” & teaching of basic principle of Buddhism from H.E Skyabje Choegon Rinpoche. In the teaching H.E stressed the Buddhist community to stop the sacrifices of animals in the name of God or religion. H.E also advised to follow the principle of non-violence as taught by Lord Buddha. H.E also advised to avoid alcohol and intoxicants which create violence in the family and society.
Historic visit of Four Gurus to Paddar valley:-
It was the first time in the history of Paddar that four prominent gurus visited Paddar. The four Gurus are
H.E the 12 Kybgon Galwang Drukpa Rinpoche,
H.E Drukpa Takna Rinpoche,
H.E Thuksey Rinpoche and
H.E Khamta Rinpoche
They visited Paddar on 19th of July and stayed there for a week. They blessed the land of Paddar with positive vibration.
By Nawang Sangay
(Author is a teacher in education department, J&K)
Paddar is celebrating Canchaiti festival from today. This celebration will go on for 4 days. Each day has its distinct name and ritual attached to it. People cook different delicacies for the occasion viz. Badas, luchis etc.
The festival is dedicated to Lord Shiva and Maa Parvati! This festival is celebrated in all across the Paddar-Pangi-Bhaderwah region.
The four days are named as:
1) Jhazhoo 2) Chakhyd 3) Gartyashi 4) Oosair
in Paddar.
Day of Jhazoo:-
This festival literally starts on day called Jhazoo in local dialect. People on this day clean their houses and preparations start for the ritual of marrying Lord Shiva with his consort Maa Parvati! Some people start cooking badas on this occasion.
Children in villages all across Paddar go door to door and ask for THANJHANJER. Thanjhanjer is a portmanteau of two-three words. Villagers give them walnuts, grains and other edible things. They eat the stuff later with great excitement.
Day of Chakhyad:-
People cook different delicacies like
•) Luchi •) Bada •) Mande •) Ghee •) Pakodas etc.
Houses today fill with the whiff of different kinds of delicious meals. At the end they relish on the meals.
Day of Gartyashi:-
Newlywed women choose a man called GAURRAT for life and on this day (they fast) for the ceremony and invite him for the dinner. Idol of Maa Parvati (Garzaa) is constructed out of clay and is decorated with the attire usually donned by the bride.
Garzaa is anologous to Girija which in turn translates to “The daughter of Mountains” an epithet of Goddess Parvati!
Picture of Garza decorated in Paddar!
Idol of Maa Parvati called Garzaa in local dialect, Paddar.
Gaurrat plays a crucial role in this festival. Every women after marriage assigns this role to a young man from the husbands clan. He performs many functions.
From adorning idols of Maa Parvati to carrying it the next day towards a nearby brook, all is taken care of by him.
Day of Oosair:-
It is the last day of this festival. On this day, Gaurrat chose by women take or say accompany the idol of Maa Parvati and immerse it in the nearby brook.
Local people play with the snow balls on this occasion. Merry making, while hitting eachother with the snow balls adds cherry to the cake.
Thereafter dance takes place of different Gaurrats in an open place in circles, amidst the sounds of local dhols and jangling of plates and ladles.
People get together is usual during this festival which adds colour to this winter season. Finally this festival culminates with the journey of Gaurrats back home.
It is also said in some cultures that women fast during this festival for the longevity of their husbands.
Last Words
This festival holds great importance in our culture. Many other legends are associated with it. If you liked this write-up, please share it with your friends.
You can also add more to it by sending information concerning this on our emails or by simply texting us on our WhatsApp numbers.
Paddar is a small subdivision of Kishtwar District and a beautiful place under the sun. Surrounded by lofty mountains and mammoth glaciers it offers many spectacular sights to its visitors. Nestled in the Jammu region of the Union Territory of J&K, this place is famous world over for its renowned blue Sapphires. Paddar is about 300 kms. far from the main city, Jammu. Being an abode of Maa Chandi and many other deities this place attracts lakhs of pilgrims every year. It is also a major potential tourist attraction in the Jammu region of India. Apart from all that this region also abounds in multiple edible forest produces like gucchi, zeera, pine-seeds etc. Mighty river Chenab which flows through the middle of it fills its air with serenity and many small brooks which fall from the tall snow-capped mountains with their resounding roar add charming music to the environs. It is a place where you can find magnificent Gompas and Temples on the one side and sprawling ancient stone relics on the other side. It is a place which will make you feel full of joys of spring and pique your interest for all your scholarly pursuits. Its serpentine roads will enthrall you to the core and its serpent worshiping people will fascinate you profusely with their hospitality.
If you are planning your visit to this mysterious land on earth then this blog is just for you. It will guide you all through when you should come here, which places you should visit and how you should spend your quality time in Paddar.
Best time to visit Paddar
Before visiting any place it becomes important that you keep yourself informed about the prevalent climatic conditions of the area. If you are really on the ball then it is sufficient for you to learn from this that Paddar is situated in the lap of Greater Himalayas and staying there in winters is not everyone’s cup of tea. Winters are tough in Paddar no doubt but if you are a chionophile (snow lover) than nothing is going to be the best place for you other than this.
Rest of the seasons are good to travel in Paddar but if you want to know about the best, it is summer season. To put it simply this month bracket {April- Oct} is a best suggestion to keep an eye on.
Now, without any much further ado let us dive straight into the top 10 Must Do’s in Paddar.
Tatta Pani, Paddar
After reaching Paddar the first thing I would suggest you to do is that you should visit Tatta Pani. It is a beautiful small village in Paddar. The extraordinary things of this village which make me recommend you this place first are its hot water springs. You can easily catch a glimpse of hot water pools in the middle of the village. You can bath in it, rain or shine. Its Sulphuric waters will make you feel relieved from the fatigue caused by the journey. A big Shesh Nag Temple spread over an area of 800 sq. feet there is also a magnetic attraction.
This village is situated at a short distance away from the main road. Sign-posts after Karthie Paddar can easily guide you on the road. A short drive to this village and exhaustion will disappear. This village will recharge you for the next step in Paddar.
Art and Sculpture in Paddar
Architecture in Paddar is unparalleled and a must watch thing. You can find many antique structures in the canvas of Paddar. As Paddar is inhabited mainly by Naga worshipping community so it usual to find Naga temples in almost every village. Starting with Tatta Pani where famous temple of Shesh Nag is situated, you can see splendid temple architecture in all the other Naga temples of Paddar as well. This fabulous architecture and specimen of art on the triangular faces of these temples is a workmanship of local artists.
Along with that there are many stone fountains in Paddar. Popularly called naurn in the local language these are believed to be very old. Legends say that these ancient structures were constructed by the Pandavas many moons ago. Chiselled generally on a single piece of rock these fountains can be found at Atholi, Sohal, Hanswar, Ligri, Bharmas (Gandhari) and Leondi villages of Paddar. Their splendour is diverse in every village. Sometimes a single mouthed and sometimes nine mouthed structures are found in the villages.
Stone sculpture at Leondi village is a master-art. An image of Shiva-Nandi Bull statue sculpted out of sandstone is a most recommended item for you. It is about 4 feet in length and 3 feet in height. It is not smooth though in furnishing but a best and unique specimen of indigenous art. You must watch it if you are in Paddar.
Moreover, you can also find images of snakes carved on big rocks in the higher regions of Paddar. Here is an example of one such at Darlang, a place located about 50 kms away from the main station Gulabgarh. You can go there only in the summer months.
One Stone Pit and some erected stone Pillars at Sohal Paddar are great things to see in Paddar.
Cuisine of Paddar
If you have come here and not tasted local food, then your journey is half-finished. You must have a list of all the important local recipes if you are in Paddar. Here are some items which I think you should try…
Kodre Ki Roti with Ghee,
Mushroom( Gucchi) and rice,
Chapatis of Dhlesh with lassi and spicy chutney,
Boiled Potatoes with Zeera or Gurar Ki chutney
Femhar with Namkeen Chai
Dry Fruits and
Chang.
It is difficult to get all these items at one single place. For these you must visit different villages to try these different varieties. You can find boiled Potatoes with Gurar ki chutney as a staple diet of people who reside in the higher reaches of Paddar and Kodre ki roti and Ghee as the most used items in the lower regions of Paddar. Apart from all that you can also try seasonal vegetables and herbs like Hingaur, Khuirr, Dharshag, Kannad, Thyushar, Paryarr etc which grow in the jungles of Paddar.
Chang, often called Himalayan Beer or Paddri Vodka is an intoxicating drink. If you are a teetotaller you can avoid this. But if you have not gone cold turkey and are a booze lover then this is the best item to try in the high altitude villages like Gandhari and Machail in Paddar.
Dry fruits are the pride of Paddar. Found in almost every village these are considered as the most valuable things in Paddar. Here are two such items you must try:
(Thangulli) Jangli badam and
Chilgoze (Pine seeds)
Culture and Handicrafts
Paddari culture is diverse and profound in nature therefore concluding it in one single paragraph is a daunting task. Yet I suggest that if you want to catch some glittering scenes and get in touch with some fascinating stories of the culture of Paddar you must synchronize your trip in tune with the Paddri calendar of festivals. Here are some of these which I think you should watch in Paddar.
Festivals in Paddar:
Maghe (Ligri)
Mithyaag (Kundal)
Awaans (Sept. Karthie)
Zagra (Gulabgarh)
Cheyt (Garh, Sohal)
Naghooi (Gandhari)
Losar (Kabban)
Poornima (Sazar)
Chazag (Paddar)
Bhoondu Ki Zaath (Atholi)
Sharzaith (Tyari & Ishtyari)
Kanchait (massu)
Apart from that there are many other small but crucial festivals and ceremonials in Paddar which are brimmed with cultural activities. Sights of local dresses, folk dances, ragas and customs in these festivals will enrich your soul deeply and make you fall in love with the place. Bizarre activities such as piercing of chin and nose with sharp tridents (trishuls) and striking body parts with a bunch of metallic rods (locally called tazane ) can also be seen here which can shock you to the core.
I sharply recommend you to attend some of these festivals.
Handicrafts in Paddar are awe-inspiring. You can watch beautiful chaklas, tough carpets, grass shoes (poole), ropes, blankets (chaudar) etc. in Paddar. Chaklas, carpets and poole are some items made of grass while ropes are made from the strands of hair of some goat. Along with that there used to be many other crafts like pottery (ghueal) etc in Paddar which has now become a part of history. These handicrafts can steal your show easily.
Peaks and Trek in Paddar
There are many soaring peaks in Paddar. Combo of both beauty and adventure these tall peaks of Paddar are the best trekking fields for the trekkers across the planet. Many attempts have been made by the mountaineers to climb these towering mountains. If you are also a rock climber then Paddar is the best place for you. Here are some of the tallest peaks located in Paddar:
Agyasol – 6200m
Brahma I 6416m
Brahma II 6425m
Tupendo 5600m
Barnaj I 6290m
Barnaj II 6331m
Barnaj III 5980m
Dikhlyar 3486m
Bindraban 4708m
Shama Chund 4862m
For trek there are quite a few adventurous routes that you can explore to satiate your trekking thirst. Here is a list of some routes:
Paddar to Zanskar via Umasi – La
Paddar to Zanskar via Hagshu-La
Paddar to Zanskar route via Umasi- La was also used by the Great Dogra General Zorawar Singh Kalhuria in the past in his Gilgit-Baltistan expeditions. This route can also help India strategically to deal with its adversaries China and Pakistan if connected with a motor-able road.
Paddar is a place of peace and tranquillity. Here people of all the three religions viz. Hindu, Muslim & Buddhist coexist in harmony with one another. Buddhist people who live in many villages of Paddar have constructed colossal Gompas on this land which are the epitomes of classic structures. Great Buddhist Guru and Nobel Laureate H.H Dalai Lama has also visited Paddar in 2013 to bless this land. If you are in Paddar you must visit these Gompas to acquire knowledge of plurality and to seek blessings of Lord Buddha.
Gompa at Gulabgarh is a must visit for you. In this sanctum sanctorum you can also watch many exclusive things side by side. Gompas are found in many villages of Paddar like Gulabgarh, Kabban, Aliha (Gandhari), Haloti and Losaini.
Yatras in Paddar
Though this place is primarily known for Machail Yatra but there happens to be lot of other Yatras in Paddar. Every yatra is significant in some sense. In these pilgrimages you can see the dance of Chelas of Mother Godesses in tune with the beats of Paddri dhols (locally called Dhouns). Rush of pilgrims and stories of the miracle of deities can fill you with devotion and enthusiasm.
I strongly recommend you to attend such pilgrimages in Paddar. Best thing about all these Yatras is that they all happen in the summer season. Meanwhile you can also explore many new things here with the rush. Pointed trees and virgin meadows of this land are waiting for your visit.
Meadows in Paddar
It is said that Paddar has got its name from the word padar which means meadow in Himachal. There is also a place in Bhaderwah by the name Padri which is similar to the name of our subdivision. Undoubtedly there are many lush green pasture lands in Paddar. Here is a list of some meadows which I think you should visit once:
Bhuzonu
Bhuzas
Dharlang
Kandaang
Chandipadhar
Hudam Dhar
Kundh etc.
Hadar
Dikhlyar
Japan Dhar
Sehen
You can encounter many lakes in these pastures as well. Monhal Lake at Ligri is a sightseeing spot and connected with the legend that culminates in the famous Maghe Festival.
Cliff Hanger Road, Paddar
If you are an adventurous guy and a road junkie this road of Ishtyari Paddar is a must visiting place for you. Considered as the world third dangerous road, this looks like hell. Dotted with many waterfalls along the way people traverse this road on vehicles every day. It connects Paddar with Himachal Pradesh. Constructed in the late 1990s this road seems like a line scratched with a pointed pin on the canvas of mountain. This track is also used by the pilgrims who visit Mindhal (Shrine in Himachal) every year.
Waterfalls in Paddar
Paddar is enriched with many breath-taking waterfalls. Flowing with great majesty their roar spreads munificence in the valley of Sapphire. Their flight from the great Himalayan Mountains under the force of Gravity adds breeze to the surrounding areas which in turn enthrals visitors with its magnificent gaudy rainbows.
From Lidrari Nala in the west to Sansari Nala in the east and from Zanskar in the north to Bhalesa in the south you can easily catch a glimpse of these beautiful blaring brooks at almost every step. Dancing, kicking, hopping, flexing, waters of these cranky cascades puzzles Chenab when they kiss it at the feet of Himalayas. These are the must recommended things to see in Paddar. Here are some of this waterfalls whose sight can be easily accessed.
I strongly hope that this write-up will make your trip worth it. I have put in all the best information known to me. Clubbed with relevant facts it is just a small effort to make your trip easier and meaningful. Art and Architecture of Paddar is akin to many other places neighbouring Paddar. You can also quench your scholarly thirst by visiting these.
At the end I will just say that there are enough things in the Paddar subdivision of Jammu region, which if given proper attention and support by the Ministry of Tourism and Culture can give a big boost to the sunrise industries of Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir.
I composed this poem 4 years ago, in 2018 A.D. I believe this poem still finds tune in our hearts and will do so eternally. Here is my Anthem for Paddar. Tell me what thoughts cross your mind after reading this. This truly should be an anthem, isn’t it?
“Anthem of Paddar”
Paddar is our holy book, We are its sacred pages. Each of its corner and nook Is designed by our holy sages.
Its Words are our action And meaning our sweat. Headings our passion and Passages our act.
Its every fullstop is mark Of birth of a new line. And every figure of speech is spark Of dazzling taste of a new wine.
Coverpage is outer beauty And stylish fonts inside are our inner lime Which, by the spark of their duty Are adorning our both worlds with time.
It started with a thought Of the meadow on the other side. Now it is our part To get ready for the next ride.
Paddar, which today is popularly known by the name “The land of Sapphire”, is a tiny subdivision of Kishtwar District of the newly created UT, J&K. Nestled in the lap of lesser Himalayas and surrounded by the tall snow-capped mountains from all sides this region of the planet which remained unknown to the rest of the world for many centuries was brought to glory in the 1880s and 1980s by the discovery of world famous Sapphire Mines and with the commencement of famous Machail Yatra respectively.
Early History of Paddar
This region which remained isolated for centuries has its own unique culture and history. Though no concrete data is available about the early history of Paddar, but there are some records, forlorn stone fountains and early sculptures which suggest that this land was traversed if not inhabited by the people many centuries ago.
Geologically it can be speculated that this tract of land especially area in the vicinity of the today’s financial Capital of Paddar, Gulabgarh, was part of a lake thousands of years ago formed by the confluence of mighty river Chenab and its tributary Bhotnallah which originates in Paddar1. With the time this land of sand to a depth of about 10-12 feet would have been formed. For years this region remained untouched from the human activity.
Situated in the lap of Himalayas this region is rich in flora and fauna. Meadows in Paddar are widely known for their rich juicy grass. These meadows would have certainly allured cattle grazers from the surrounding areas to this land and which would have finally paved way for the inhabitation of the area in the later years. Pointing exact dates of such dwellings are unfeasible but it can be said that this all would have happened between 6th and 8th centuries CE.
Naurn
To the west there lies Nagseni, an area about 30 km away from Paddar, history of which dates back to around 200-300 BC. One of the Great Buddhist Monks Nagsen who wrote book Milindapanho was born there. Carving roads through the Himalayan Mountains especially Paddar would have been truly a daunting task but should it not be questioned that how an area which was only at a 30 km distance from an inhabited place remained uninhabited for years on end. Legends tell that stone fountains, popularly known as naurn in Paddar were built by Pandavas. Same structures can be found scattered in many areas neighbouring Paddar viz Pangi, Bhaderwah and Nagseni. It is true that these structures are centuries old and are a matter of research but calling these to the time of Mahabharata would not be sound as we have no data to justify this claim.
The etymology of the word, Paddar
Origin of the word Paddar
Lush green pastures of Paddar attracted cattle grazers from the neighbouring areas viz. Zanskar, Bhaderwah and Pangi. Similarity in language and culture give testimony to this fact. Many propositions have been put forward by scholars for the word Paddar. According to S.D Vyas, word Paddar is comprised of two words PAA & DAR, the first one means a ‘foot or pul’ in the native dialect and the later stands for ‘the fear’ 2. Thus the meaning of word according to him loosely translates to a place which is full of adventures.
Learn about the present and future of Paddri dialect: Click Below:
Others suggest that its genesis is linked to the name “padhar” meaning meadow in Bhaderwahi and Pangi dialect. There is also a place in Bhaderwah by the name Padri meaning meadow and which justifies this proposition to some extent. Also, there is a place called Padum in Zanskar to the north of Paddar. This word Padum is also quite similar to the word Paddar. It is a point of coincidence or something else that names of some of the surrounding regions are quite similar to the name Paddar. This point has led many scholars to conclude that migration to this place Paddar would have had happened in the past mainly from these three regions and not from the western region i.e. Kishtwar.
Paddar under the Guge Rule
Tough terrain would have posed challenge in the beginning to those who tried to use it as a pasture land for their cattle but slowly when they got accustomed to it they finally made their attempt to settle near water sources in Paddar. Firstly, people would have come from Pangi and Bhaderwah areas in 8th and 9th centuries and from the Zanskar region in the beginning of 12th and 13th centuries or even later. That could be a reason why there is less Buddhist population in Paddar nowadays. Paddar was under the occupation of Guge Rule between 10th and 14th centuries who ruled from Zanskar region. Third son of Guge ruler Nyima Mgon was Ide Gtsug Mgon who received Zanskar when his father spilt his vast kingdom and distributed it among his three sons in the 10th century.
Stone Inscription
Dangerous path via Umasi-La was used by the forces of Guge Regime to reach Paddar. This path brought finally with itself people from Padum who used to trade in some essential commodities. Slowly people began to settle in the higher reaches of Paddar viz Sumcham Haloti, Tun etc. This route would have first brought Buddhism to Paddar. As this path which is situated at the height of about 17370 feet above sea level remains under the snow, it becomes difficult to traverse through it for more than half a year. Although petty Ranas or local leaders would have ruled lower Paddar from the beginning due to its geography but this area can be said to have remained under the influence of Guge rule till the end of 14th century. There are no stories of loot and plunder under the Guge regime.3
Transition into the Medieval Period
Due to rugged topography Guge Rulers couldn’t maintain tight control over the mainland Paddar. Only few villages of the higher reaches of Paddar could have fallen into the jurisdiction of the Guge Empire and which too due to the mercantile activities of the people from Padum. Rest of the Paddar was under the rule of petty Ranas whose dominions could not exceed 5 villages. There happened to be a head (Rana) in every two-three villages who managed affairs in the areas from the beginning of the 10th century.
Economy of Paddar in the Medieval Period
Agriculture was the primary source of activity in the villages. Spending entire day with cattle, goat and sheep would have kept them hand to mouth for the entire summer months. During winters, produce from the field viz. pulses (expect Rajmah), dhlesh, rice, Kodra etc would have kept their house hearth burning. Barter system was followed by the villagers.
Hazel Nuts
This agrarian economy of the medieval villages of Paddar was controlled by the petty Ranas of the region. It is likely that these Ranas would have collected revenue in kind from the villagers. There happened to be competition among these Ranas for that and which often resulted in the rivalry between them.
Attacks on Paddar from the west and increase in the power of Ranas.
Paddar from Ishtyari in the east to Sazar in the West and Sumcham to the North remained totally under the influence of local Ranas. In the middle of 14th century Raja Sangram Singh of Kishtwar attacked Sazar and added it into his dominion. His return to Kishtwar after that which brought relief for the rest of the Ranas of Paddar who hoped that the danger has stalled.4
After that Kishtwar state came under the rule of Raja Rai Dev. It was in the middle of 15th -16th centuries that first major attack on Paddar happened from the west under the Wazir Mangal Rai of ruler Raja Rai Dev. While on the expedition he defeated the Ranas of Jar and Kadhail and brought villages of jurisdiction under his master’s rule.After that he also returned to Kishtwar sparing rest of the Paddar. He took large number of animals consisting of cows, bulls, sheep and goats along with him but this saved other Ranas from his wrath5.
You can also find a lot on information on Paddar in this book by Eminent Historian from Kishtwar Sh.DC Sharma Ji:
Glimpses of Kishtwar History by DC Sharma
There remained peace in Paddar for the next one century but Ranas who saw this scathing attack debilitating their homeland laid stress on increasing their power. They revised their tactics and went on to increase their influence to save their land from further attacks. Ranas of Paddar could not take peace for granted and hence their attempt to bring more villages under their dominion seems justified.
There are some stories regarding these petty Ranas who strived to increase their influence. Rana of Leondi Sheetal Singh and Rana of Sohal Sudama were two of them. Rana Sheetal Singh brought the entire region from the immediate north upto present Gulabgarh under his control. Rana of Sohal with the help of his son brought entire Eastern region upto Ishtyari, Gandhari under his control. With this rose two powers in the small region of Paddar.
The rivalry between Rana of Leondi and Rana of Sohal.
With the rise in power, the enmity between the Ranas of Sohal and Leondi also rose. Rana of Sohal might have coveted the sandy plain area of present Gulabgarh which Sheetal Singh considered part of his property. Sheetal Singh could not give direct fight to the Rana of Sohal so he targeted his main warrior friend BhotPlanch. Bhot Planch lived at Kabban. Being a good friend of the Rana of Sohal, BhotPlanch was a brave warrior. It would not be wrong if you call Bhot Planch a “Beast”. The rivalry of the Rana of Sohal with the Rana of Leondi, Sheetal Singh made Bhot Planch appear before the scene. He was the Commander and friend of the Rana of Sohal Paddar.
BhotPlanch: Paddar History
It is said that he was the inhabitant of Lahul (a place in Himachal Pardesh). His friendship with the Rana of Sohal brought him to Paddar. He was given the village of Kabban to rule by the Rana of Sohal village. It is proposed that Buddhist migration from Pangi region would also have happened during this period to the Kabban region of Paddar. Bhot Planch was one such warrior who came from Lahul region.
He maintained a long tuft of hair like Chanakya. His lifestyle was weird. He slept less and ate less salt. His look itself would have instilled fear in the people. It is said of him that his uncanny habit of taking less salt with food aided him to conquer his sleep. One could have found him awoken all night guarding the fort.
Know the geography of Paddar in 4 minutes. Click here:
There happened many group fights between the two Ranas. Sheetal Singh failed multiple times in the skirmishes that happened between the two little armies. One such fight happened at a place called Raktal in Sohal Paddar which routed his army completely and resorted him to adopting some unfair means. He grew anxious and hatched a plan to kill Bhotplanch. By resorting to unfair means he succeeded in manipulating BhotPlanch’s wife. One day in the dark of Night Sheetal Singh killed Bhotplanch with the aid of his treacherous wife.
This brought to an end the main commander of the Rana of Sohal. Sheetal Singh who had defeated many other Ranas with such tactics constructed a fort at a place called Dumair (at the confluence of River Chenab and Its tributary Bhot Nallah, presently Gulabgarh). Thus Mini-Capital rose around the fort and it was named Sheetalgarh after his name. On the other hand, Rana of Sohal along with other defeated Ranas approached Chattar Singh, the Ruler of Chamba and invited him to attack Paddar.
Chattar Singh and the Battle of Sheetalgarh
Stories tell that friendly relations of Rana of Sohal were good with the Ruler of Chamba. When Rana approached Chatter Singh in the middle of the 17th century, he sent his army to his aid to attack Sheetalgarh. Sheetal Singh was unaware of such plans. In the middle of night there happened a surprised attack at Sheetalgarh. Half of his army was finished by the time there rings an alarm of danger. Sheetal Singh fought bravely but succumbed to his injuries later on.
Dumiad: A place where Sheetalgarh Fort was located.
A fort erected by Sheetal Singh was demolished and a new fort was constructed in its place. It was named Chattergarh after the name of the ruler of Chamba. A small unit of the Chamba army stationed at Sohal Paddar. It is said that it were they who first constructed a small Maa Kali Temple there. An old order of Ranas was restored by placing the entire region of Paddar under the Chamba rule. Ranas of Paddar were made Kardars or revenue collecters in their own estates.
Art and Achitecture during this period
There are many stone sculptures and pillars which belong to this region. There is one Nandi Bull (Consort of Lord Shiva) stone Sculpture at Leondi. It is a workmanship of local artisans and most probably this would have been constructed at the time of Rana Sheetal Singh.
Another stone ditch or pit can be found at Sohal. It is around 9-10 feet deep conical pit constructed in the middle of 17th century to mainly store water for the times of emergency. Other temple deities are also found carved on the wooden pallete of temples all across the Paddar. There is one flat sandstone in Ungaie Paddar also on which different deities have been carved.
Stone Pillar in Paddar, Ungaie
Along with that design of Kothis where people lived, Kutnyalis where people crushed their grains and Ghirats where people made flour of grains is also notable.
Many kitchen implements like ghueal (used for pouring Ghee), many tools used for worshipping called Sandhel and use of many other things like tazane (metallic rods) in temples are also intriguing.
Social Practices and Customs
Wheels of the society of Paddar in this period moved on the track of traditions and norms. Every aspect was dictated in terms of legends. Winters kept people of this region confined to homes and process of cleansing these homes cum kothis came to a grinding halt for the entire period. With the dawn of summer months there began the tradition of throwing Hyun.
Literally meaning of this word is associated with snow but in this sense here it means filth that accumulates in the winters due to uncleanliness and practice of throwing that smut with the dawn of summers got cemented in the social fabric of Paddar in the form of a ritual. This practice which continued till modern times worked as a reminder of cleanliness in the past.
Festivals played the role of glue in binding the people of different villages. They enabled people to forge strong familial ties as well. Festival of Awaans is a prime example of this. Its genesis is linked to the legend of marriage between a boy of village Sazar and girl of village Dhyaan in Paddar. Awaans is still celebrated in Paddar in the memory of the familial ties forged in the past. This reminded people of the importance of sanctity of such relations.
There emerged many rituals and festivals in Paddar based on the personal experiences of dwellers, each serving some purpose in the evolution of the society of Paddar.
Poorniyun festival, Sazar
There although existed some practices which played their role in keeping Paddar backward viz Sati Pratha, Caste System and superstitions.
From the ancient stone Pillars at Sohal Paddar and few other villages it can be argued that Sati system was prevalent in Paddar. People were used to building large stone pillars in the memory of those women who went Sati with her husbands. This practice died with time due to social reforms that happened in the country.
As we know that present is an outcome of past. It can be claimed from this logic that Caste system was deep rooted in the medieval society of Paddar. There were Brahmins, Khatris and Shudras in Paddar and discrimination with shudras happened on a wide scale. There were separate cremation grounds constructed for them and their functions were barely attended by the rest.
Study in detail about the Festivals celebrated in Paddar: Click Here:
Superstition in Paddar had also large tentacles. It played a great role in hindering the progress of developing society. Black magic, sorcery, animal sacrifices at temples on large scale were part of the society. There is a one story of the Rana of Garh whose superstitious mind was convinced to such an extent by the superstitious society of that time that he agreed to kill her daughter-in-law on the pretext of sacrifice done in order to restore the main canal which was blocked due to some natural cause.
One bizarre ritual called Mundyar Shau was also prevalent at Tatta Pani. During this ceremony it is said that 100 sheep were slaughtered in the name of sacrifice to keep the monster happy who was believed to bring bad fortune for the villagers.
Thothas as locally called, used for Bhoomi Pujan
Nomenclature of many mountains have been done after the name of monsters. Mountain above Tatta Pani is called Dhadbhadek and above Matti area is called Dhuauzz. These sacrifices are done in order to keep them happy. It is believed that if such sacrifices are not made Paddar will face the onslaught of these demons or something inauspicious will occur.
People of Paddar were also accustomed to some traditional games viz. Santooli, Churu, Hamla etc. These games have flexed muscles of this region from generations. They have grown up while playing these and many such games are still in practice in Paddar.
Wine and Dine
Food reveals a lot about the society. It is expected that crops like Kodra (Kodo Millet), Dhlesh, Pulses, Barley, Paddy, Wheat were grown by the people of Paddar. People were mostly accustomed to meat and milk products. Many rituals and traditions related to milk products have stuck with them from the very beginning. Apart from that other vegetables and spices that the Himalayan forests wrought were also part of their cuisine. Intoxicating drinks also found their place in the society of Paddar. Chang being popular in the higher reaches.
Himalayan Beer, Chang.
Pots used for cooking food were not that advanced. Animal skins were used for the transportation of butter milk or other milk products from one place to another. Soil Pots were used as containers for the storage of water and other things. Ladles and other kitchen implements were probably made of wood. Ghirats (moving wheels) were in use for turning grains into flour and big Kutnyalis (kind of stone thrashers) were in place for thrashing skinny grains. Other natural products like Ghughutak and khyds were used as soaps to wash clothes or for bath.
Seasonal Vegetables of Paddar
Supply of salt, jaggery and other products (that were not made or found in Paddar) to Paddar were likely to have had happened from the northern and eastern side that is from Zanskar and Chamba respectively. The road was harsh and ponies and cattle were used as load carriers.
Mustard oil was not in use in place of it ghee (purified form of butter) was used for cooking food. Apart from this, Sattu (made from Barley) was the main ingredient which people from that period used.
Transition into modern Period
After the invasion of the Chamba King Chattar Singh and construction of fort at Gulabgarh called Chattergarh fort, Paddar lived a peaceful life till the beginning of first two decades of 19th century. Lots of developmental work took place during this time. By then many crops were introduced in Paddar viz. Maize and Potato, thanks to its constant touch with the Chamba principality.
It was 1821 AD when Kishtwar state was being ruled by the last ruler of Kishtwar Mohammad Teg Singh. Expansion of Dogra state was happening rapidly and dogra forces under the command of Dogra General Zorawar Singh Kalhuria were on the spree. Raja of Kishtwar also confronted the forces of Dogra Maharaja Gulab Singh. His defeat was inevitable therefore he surrendered on the face of it but one of his wazir could not digest all that and therefore fled to Chamba and sought refuge under the then Raja of Chamba, Charat Singh.6
More about the Political Figures of Paddar who shaped the Paddar’s History. Click below:
The Raja of Chamba appointed him the chief official of Paddar. In about 1825 A.D. he annexed Padam and added it to the territory of Chamba. This achievement of him made him famous and earned him the name of Rattnu Palsar in Paddar.7
Later in 1835 AD when some 30 soldiers of Maharaja Gulab Singh were stationed at Chattergarh by the two of his Generals from Kishtwar Mehta Basti Ram and Wazir Lakhpat Padiyar to keep up communication with the Zanskar when they came from there via Umasi-La8. Rattan Singh got worried when he saw that positioning of Dogra soldiers at Paddar.
He feared that Dogras might crush him any time and add Paddar to the Dogra state. Rattan Singh repudiated this act of theirs and therefore later when Zanskar raised the banner of revolt against Dogra rule, he exploited this opportunity and arrested the Dogra soldiers with the aid of local forces and sent them to Chamba as prisoners. This act of him invited the wrath of Dogra General Zorawar Singh to Paddar.
Dogra General Zorawar Singh Kalhuria attacks Paddar
Zorawar Singh Kalhuria who was born in 1784 AD in the Bilaspur state of Himachal Pradesh was the tall General of Maharaja Gulab Singh. When the news of Rattan Singh that he had captured Dogra soldiers from Chattergarh reached his ears he marched towards Paddar with his band of 3000 soldiers in the spring of 18369.
Dogra General Zorawar Singh
He reached Paddar from the west. Forces of Rattan Singh who were expecting this and were wary of this destroyed the only bridge on river Chenab. This move of Rattnu Palsar kept Dogra forces away for about three months. Finally one day Dogra forces faked the events at Atholi Paddar and managed to build a rope bridge across the tributary of River Chenab called Both Nallah. Local forces did not expect this and got surprised at this sudden attack.
Forces of Charat Singh under Rattan Singh’s command suffered a humiliating defeat at the hands of Dogra general and Paddar was added to the Dogra state in 1836 A.D. Local forces were disfigured by the him in order to instil the sense of dread among locals so that no one would raise a banner of revolt against the Dogra state in the future.10
Fort built by the Chattar Singh at Chatter Garh was brought down by him and its name was changed to Gulabgarh once and for all during this period. Rattan Singh was taken as prisoner to Jammu by him though he was set free by Maharaja Gulab Singh later.
How many villages are there in Paddar? Click below:
There is a story that one day when Rattnu Singh’s master (the Raja of Chamba) and who gave him shelter and Paddar to rule for a brief period, died and when this news reached his ears while in Jail he refused eating and have his head shaven in grief. While looking at this Maharaja Gulab Singh’s heart filled with compassion and he ordered his release from the jail. He gave him an estate to rule in Kishtwar.
After crushing rebellion in Paddar Zorawar Singh went to Zanskar to crush the rebellion there via Umasi- La. He restored peace there and went back to Kishtwar.
While he was in Kishtwar in 1837 AD news of rebellion in Leh again reached his ears. He marched towards Leh and it is said that he covered the entire distance from Kishtwar to Leh in 10 days.
After that on his return from Leh he also built a fort at Chishoti Paddar in 1838 A.D. Paddar and Zanskar both became part of the Dogra state and were given status of Tehsil under the rule of Maharaja Gulab Singh in 1845 AD.
Discovery of Sapphire Mines in Paddar
There are many stories which revolve around the discovery of these classified sapphire mines. One version tells that the steps towards the detection of these mines were initiated in 1881-82 after some pieces of blue stone were purchased by some Laholi traders (who later on sold these in Shimla) from the local hunter of Sumcham village. Hordes of people came in Paddar thereafter in search of these mines once its value was recognized. Initially they confused Paddar to Padam (an area in Ladakh) but managed to find the place later. They took a large quantity of Sapphire to Lahul where they sold these precious stones at absurdly low prices.
It is said that during those times people from Padum ( Zanskar) used to trade in salt and other items in Paddar and a sack full of raw stone collected from Sapphire Mines were exchanged in lieu for a sack full of salt.
Sapphires of Paddar
When this news hit the ears of the then Maharaja of J&K (under whose jurisdiction this area lied) he immediately stationed his troops near the mines. By leaps and bounds work at Sapphire Mines started in 1882. It is said that 72,207 tolas of Sapphire of worth 4 lakh rupees were yielded during 1882-83. Those were the days of Glory for Maharaja and place Paddar. Stones as big as 6’’ to 3” were discovered during this time which earned name and fame for Paddar. By the end of the decade in 1887 revenues from the mines started waning.
Taking serious note of this Maharaja Ranjit Singh sought help from the then Indian Government. To his aid British Government sent an expert geologist Mr Tom D. LaTouche to J&K. His survey revealed that the mines had run out of its resources and that only floor mining could yield more if done. At that time there was a feeling of mistrust among the British Government officials for the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir due to his chumminess with the Russians. Taking this into consideration they exercised direct control over J&K during this period because of which work at the Sapphire Mines halted between 1989 and 1905.
You can also watch this video to know the History of Paddar Sapphires in depth:
These mines were leased out to the Kashmir Mineral Co. and CMP Wright between 1906 and 1908. In 1909 a department of mining was established which was named later on as J&K Minerals Limited. In between 1909 and 1932 many other people from Jammu and Kashmir visited these mines. The mining work stopped for two decades thereafter.
Political History of Paddar
Political history of Paddar has remained a turbulent one. From being a local unit of Ranas to becoming a Tehsil of Kishtwar District it has seen many ups and downs.
In 1845AD Paddar was given the status of Tehsil under the reign of the Dogra Maharaja Gulab Singh. Later in the period of Maharaja Ranbir Singh when Zanskar was added to Leh, Paddar was added to Kishtwar Tehsil. Hence Paddar which was earlier a tehsil and of which Zanskar was a part now itself became a part of Kishtwar Tehsil.
In 1963 it was given the status of Block by the then Govt. of J&K. Paddar was then a Niabat Headquarter. Surrounding regions viz. Chamba and Zanskar which were akin to Paddar in terms of development and infrastructure, flourished due to the grant of Scheduled Tribe Status. Paddar struggled for this status since 1986 but could not succeed in its attempt.
People of Paddar struggled and after great chest thumping Tehsil status was finally restored to Paddar region in 2005 AD. Now there are two Tehsils in Paddar viz. Atholi and Machail.
In 1986 the then Governor of J&K visited Paddar. High School Atholi was upgraded to Higher Secondary School. Along with that multiple funds were also granted for the development of Paddar area.
You can also read an article on the development of Paddar, published in Daily Excelsior Newspaper by Ashish Chouhan. Click below:
There were three Panchayats in Paddar Block viz. Atholi, Sohal and Massu Panchayat. When first Panchayati elections were held in Paddar in 1957, Sh. Prem Lal from Atholi was chosen as Sarpanch of Atholi Panchayat, Sh. Jwala Das from Ligri was chosen as Sarpanch from Massu Panchayat and Sh. Ram Dayal from Sohal Paddar was chosen Sarpanch from the Sohal Panchayat.
After that 2 more Panchayats were formed in the later period. Now there are 13 Panchayats in Paddar Subdivision.
Roads in Paddar
Paddar was not connected with motor able road earlier. People used to cover entire distance by foot in the past. It was dangerous to traverse through this rough and bumpy road. Loads of salt bags were brought on cattle backs from Thatri and other regions to Paddar. It was in 1989 that people first saw vehicle in Paddar when it was connected with roads by BRO under GREF.
The then Governor of J&K Sh. K.V Krishna Rao visited Paddar and inaugurated this road for the public transport. Later on this road went upto Sansari Nallah. Bridge over river Chenab was constructed and development in Paddar picked up pace.
Today we can see a new road through upper Ishtyari being constructed to avert movement through the world’s 3rd dangerous road that is Cliff Hnager Road. Work on many link roads are also in progress. Many new roads have been sanctioned but it is unfortunate that many regions of Paddar viz. Ungaie, Gandhari, Pallali, Machail are still unconnected with motor able road.
Terrorist Attacks in Paddar
When militancy was at its peak in 1990s Paddar also faced the impact of it. Three areas of Paddar came under the attack of these terrorists viz. Sazar, Chitto and Atholi region.
Sharoth Dhar Massacre vistims.
In Sazar 7 innocent lives were taken by the terrorists. These terrorist used to roam in the Himalayan jungles. People of Atholi Paddar who had their Puhali (makeshift houses in the higher reaches to facilitate the movement of their cattle) in the Sharoth region of southern jungles also faced an attack in 2001 AD. In this fatal attack 13 innocent people were brutally killed by the terrorists at point blank range.
More about the History of Sharoth Dhar Massacre is here:
In Chitto, terrorists also entered from the upper reaches. They forced local inhabitants to carry their luggage. There didn’t happen any casualty in this case though but it also panicked Paddar for a brief period. Stern action of army and formation of Village Defence Committees (VDCs) in every village later on stopped the terrorist activities in the region.
Calamities in Paddar
Paddar has faced many adversities. It is a known fact that Paddar is situated in the lap of lesser Himalayas and many villages in this subdivision are situated in the upper reaches of Paddar near to colossal glaciers and areas which are prone to deadly avalanches. In these higher reaches timber was usually used for constructing kothis ( typical Paddri name for houses).
In the ending months of 1963 AD many houses in Sohal Paddar caught fire. Whole village was destroyed by the flames when this fire broke out in the village. Many other such incidents have taken place in other regions of Paddar viz Ungaie etc also where many houses were burnt down.
One cipf-es.org another incident happened in Paddar which shook the Paddar region from the very base. It was year 1989 AD when one avalanche changed its course and swept the entire Bhatwas village in Gandhari Paddar. It was a first natural calamity of this kind that Paddar faced. In this natural calamity about 40 people got killed.
Recently happened Gandhari fire incident. 27 Oct 2022.
It is a well-known fact that roads of Paddar are prone to accidents and many accidents have occurred on these roads. It is unfeasible to make a list of all such accidents. But there is one such which happened in 2006 AD when one ill-fated bus Karan rolled down from the road and fell into river Chenab in the Shashoo region of Paddar. In this accident about 47 people were killed. This accident sent shock ripples across the length and breadth of Paddar.
If you want to add more facts and figures to swell the history of Paddar. Please send your suggestions on our email paddarmachail@gmail.com or you can simply comment below!
This gives us hope to work more for Paddar! Thank you so much!
